In the attached photos you will see where I have begun the installation of the seat supports.  This has been quite time consuming because a lot of trial and error fitting & trimming was done to get the seat tops to match the contour of the sides of the boat.  Rememebr---I had to add about 3" to the width @ panel "B" in order to get an acceptable hull shape.

I began to work on the keel today.  I laid out the batten along the keel slot and marked the position of each frame.  I then transferred the frame locations to the keel board.  I marked the width of the keel at each frame and laid a batten along these marks to make a curve for the keel shape.  

Well it has been a week or so since I posted any updates on my progress so here goes....  This week I installed the the final support panels inside the hull of the boat. As you can see in photos 065-066, the bottom of the support frames were not matching up with the bottom panels.  With a lot of trial and error I propped several boards underneath the boat to try and reduce the gap between the frames.  Frame "C" in Photo 065 had a gap of about 1.75" and the only way I was finally able to close it up was to add some plywood to the back side of the support frame.  This was also the case in Frame "B" which is visible in photo 066.  I decided to go ahead and cut the access holes into frame "B" prior to installation.

I will offer one tip that worked out quite well while trying to install frame "B".  I used a pipe clamp to lay across the boat and lined it up with predetermined marks on the side walls.  I did NOT apply pressure with the pipe clamp to the sides.  The pipe clamp was only used so that I could use 2 hand clamps to hold the frame verticle and temporarily in place.

After all support frames were in place and epoxied, I then proceeded to apply the fiberglass to the bottom seam where the bottom panels and the side panels meet.  This order of installation seemed to work best because I was able to keep a uniform shape on the hull.  Again there were several modifications made to the support frames in order to keep an acceptable hull shape.  After such modifications, the boat will be approximately 3 inches wider @ frame "B" than what the plans were indicating. 

All in alll---the boat seems to be coming along very well but I can definitely see where an extra pair of hands would be beneficial.

Finally---after a lot of trimming, bending and stitching, I have managed to get the bottom panels to "marry-up" with the side panels at the bow of the boat.  I'm sure you will see the concern I had when you view photo 085.  As you can see in the photos it was virtually impossible to get the joints / seams together.  

Busy day today. The plan was to build the cradle or foundation, then square and level it. I had 2 14-foot 2x4’s for the sides and sliced a 2x4x8’ in two for the ends. The work went quickly and I figured why not start in on the setting the bow stem into position?

The foundation

After marking the center of the foundation at both ends, I cut two 1-foot 2x4’s and shimmed them to be level with the foundation and attached them with deck screws. Taking the bow stem and placing the 48” ruler to mark the forward most point for the stem, I took the angle of the stem from the full size drawing and set it correctly, making sure it was square and dead center to the foundation. A hefty 6” clamp will hold it in place.

That went pretty quick too so on to marking out the positions for the 10 frames and the transom. These were double-checked for accuracy by comparing measurements from the front and back of the foundation.

With this done I wanted to see if I could get a couple frames mounted. First, I had to run a mason line to use as a centerline. Measured it out and attached it then I put up frame number 1. I used a plumb bob to align it with the centerline then sank a couple deck screws into the spreader to hold it in place. 2 drills, one for pilot holes and the other as a driver, made quick work out of mounting the frames to the foundation.

3 frames done

5 done!

It went so quickly that I got all 10 and the transom set!

I am going to bevel the frames in place with an electric planer and we will see how that works!

For some reason, I am not able to navigate thru the image link....I'm sure it is probably user error or my out-dated computer.

I have assemble the frame (temporarily) so that I can get the boat upside down in order to install the bottom panel(s).  (See photos 052-062).

With a little help from a neighbor, we turned the frame bottom up.  Tonight (Monday) I attempted to place the bottom panels onto the frame.  I am quite concerned about the way the point of the bow is not matching well at all to the sides of the the boat.  I will take photos and post those tomorrow.  There is an extreme amount of tension on the front end of he bottom panel--I originally tried to stitch the 2 bottom panels together first but that was not working.  I think I'm going to try and bend the front of the bottom panel gradually down and over frame "A" (the most forward frame inside the side walls).

Any suggestions at this point would be appreciated.  This set of boat plans did not come with a step by step instruction guide so I am going to contact bateau tomorrow and see if I'm missing those or if I am supposed to rely solely on the how-to tutorials.

Steve

Well I have just joined the Wooden Boat Blog and just want to let you know what I am up to. In recent months I have purchased Sea Spray which is a 1926 Huon Pine Motor Sailer. The photo below has been taken at the Motor Yacht Club of Tasmania in Hobart.